Crossing the Caspian Sea by ferry is a dream for many travelers – as it has been for us. There are different routes traversing the largest lake on Earth, and we took the one from Azerbaijan to Kazakhstan. We had an amazing experience on the Caspian Sea ferry, and it was worth it. However, there are some things you should know beforehand and take into consideration before planning to take the ferry.
In this how-to-guide, you will find everything you need to know about traveling by ferry across the Caspian Sea in 2025, as well as our personal timeline and experiences. We have prepared a step-by-step instruction on how to board the ferry without too much hassle and included further recommendations for your time on board the ferry. This information is based on our experience from June 2024 and cross-checked with experiences of other travelers who took the Caspian Sea Ferry in autumn 2024.
- All you need to know about the Caspian Sea Ferry
- Where do the ferries leave and arrive?
- What’s the schedule?
- Which vessels run this route?
- Where and how can I buy the tickets?
- How much does the ferry ticket cost (AZ to KAZ)?
- How do I know once a ferry is leaving?
- How much time does the ferry take?
- How can I contact Alat port?
- Which facilities are provided at Alat port?
- Can I buy food on the ferry?
- How is the accommodation on the ferry?
- Important phone numbers
- Our timeline of taking the ferry
- Step-by-step guide on how to get on the Caspian Sea ferry
- Step 1: Check the location of the ferries
- Step 2: Buy a ticket
- Step 3: Call the Alat port
- Step 4: Go to the harbor if there is a boat leaving soon
- Step 5: Activate your ticket at “Asco Kassa”
- Step 6: Be prepared to wait until boarding starts
- Step 7: Security and passport control
- Step 8: Enter the ship – finally!
- Our experience aboard the ferry and useful recommendations
If you are looking for information regarding the ferries between Azerbaijan and Turkmenistan, we recommend the Caravanistan website.
This article may contain affiliate links, meaning we may earn a commission if you make a purchase through a link.
All you need to know about the Caspian Sea Ferry from Azerbaijan to Kazakhstan
Comparing our experience on the Caspian Sea Ferry with other travelers who did this trip before the Covid-19 pandemic, it seems that a lot has changed. In the past, this trip must have been quite challenging. For us, everything went comparatively smooth. Comparatively…
Where do the Caspian Sea ferries leave and arrive?
The ferries leave from Alat Port which is located 70 km south of Baku and arrive at Kuryk Port which is located 25 km east of Kuryk town (and 60 km south of Aktau (also spelled Aqtau)) in Kazakhstan. The ferry to Turkmenistan arrives in Turkmenbashi.
What’s the schedule of the Caspian Sea ferry?
There is no fixed schedule. The ferries leave whenever they are full with cars and trucks. The ferries are Ro-Pax (roll-on/roll-off passenger) ferries that also take foot passengers, but trucks and cars have priority. The general rule is that there is a ferry leaving every three to five days from Alat to Kuryk if good weather is forecasted. If the weather is good and especially in summer, there might be ferries going more often (in our case in June, we saw ferries coming and going every day).
Which vessels run this route?
There are different freighters running the route between Azerbaijan and Kazakhstan but not all take passengers. To our knowledge (June 2024), these three ships take passengers: Azerbaijan, Zarifa Aliyeva and Professor Gül.
Where and how can I buy the tickets?
There are three options to buy the ferry ticket:
- The easiest way – in our experience – is to book the ticket online. The ticket is a universal one and has no specific time or date. Upon arrival at the harbor, the ticket must be activated at the “Asco Kassa” (click for exact location) and will be valid for the next boat that takes foot passengers.
- Buy the ticket at the port in person. We were told that you can only pay the ticket in USD there.
- Buy the ticket in the Asco Office in Baku.
How much does the Caspian Sea ferry ticket cost (Azerbaijan to Kazakhstan)?
For passenger = foot traveler 70 USD, bicycle an extra 10 USD, motorcycle an extra 110 USD, car an extra 300 USD.
How do I know once a ferry is leaving?
You can track the location of the vessels in real time on the asco-website. The status “on road” means that the boat is currently sailing, “raid” signifies that the ship is on anchor close to the harbor but cannot enter yet and “bridge” stands for boarding is taking place.
How much time does the ferry take?
The length of the boat ride depends on the weather conditions at sea and might vary heavily. We had good weather conditions and not much wind on the Caspian Sea. So, the ride itself took 22 hours. However, immense waiting times on anchor near the harbor can occur, e.g. if the port is still occupied. Read more about our experience below. In summary, we advise to only take the ferry if you have no bigger time constraints.
How can I contact the Alat port?
There are different phone numbers. You can reach the ticket office under +994 559 999 124 and the port under +994 50 746 29 62.
Which facilities are provided at the Alat port?
There is a lot of outdated information online. Many sources mention that you can only camp at the harbor or stay at the only hotel in Alat which is a bit overpriced and 15 min walk from the port. This is not the case anymore. As of October 2023, there is a waiting hall which you can access if you have a ticket. The waiting hall is equipped with seats and a few loungers, AC, power outlets and drinking water. Next to the waiting hall is a female and a male toilet.
Furthermore, in front of the harbor is a shop (outside the “with-ticket-only-area”), so have your ticket and passport with you if you go shopping to buy basic stuff like water, bread, fruits, etc. There is also a petrol station and an ATM. We did not ask for it but apparently, there is also a shower, but it seems that you need to ask the officers for the keys (and probably pay for it). There is Wi-Fi around the Asco Kassa building but you have to ask the officers for the password.
Can I buy food on the ferry?
The passenger ticket normally includes one breakfast, one lunch and one dinner as well as one soft drink per meal. However, if you happen to stay longer on the ship, additional meals will be provided. Tea and water are always available in the common room. There is no shop on the boat.
How is the accommodation on the ferry?
Normally, the ferries have cabins with 4 beds (2 bunk beds) and one bathroom each (without toilet paper – better bring some). The staff will provide you with bed sheets (no towels). Power outlets are available in the cabins. Furthermore, the rooms are equipped with lockers to store your luggage.
Important phone numbers
- Ticket office at Alat port: +994 559 999 124
- Alat port: +994 50 746 29 62
- Kuryk port: +7 7292 462 460 and +7 7292 462 475
- Ticket office in Aktau: +7 771 444 3511 and +77292500346
UPDATE LAND BORDERS AZERBAIJAN
The land borders of Azerbaijan remain closed at least until April 1, 2025. They have been closed since 2020 and the government has been prolonging the closure ever since. This means that you can only enter Azerbaijan by air, but not by land or sea. However, leaving the country by land or sea is possible.
Our timeline of taking the ferry
Day 1
- 9 am: We call the Alat port and get a promise to be called back as soon as boarding begins
- 8:30 pm: The harbor tells us that boarding is starting
- 10:30 pm: We arrive at the port, validate our tickets and enter the waiting hall where we stay the whole night
Day 2
- 7:30 am: We are woken up and led to passport control
- 10 am: We enter the ferry ‘Azerbaijan’
- 2 pm: The ship leaves Alat harbor
Day 3
- 11 am: We arrive near Kuryk port, anchor and wait
- 10 pm: The Azerbaijan is allowed to enter the harbor and we leave the boat
Day 4
- 1:30 am: We go through custom and immigration and finally leave Kuryk harbor
Step-by-step guide on how to get on the Caspian Sea ferry & our experience
There are many horror stories out there regarding the Caspian Sea ferry. For us, everything went very smooth and pleasant. Either we just got very lucky or – which we rather believe – a lot has improved in the past years. We have compiled a step-by-step guide based on our own experiences.
You have two options on how to take the ferry: Either you go straight to Alat port and wait for the ferry there or you wait in Baku until a vessel arrives. Since we didn’t want to spend too much time in Alat, we decided to stay in Baku and organize the journey from there. Therefore, this guide is explaining the second option.
Step 1: Check the location of the ferries on the Caspian Sea
The Asco website is providing information about the location of their vessels and their status. As to our understanding, these three freighters have room for passengers and go back and forth between Alat and Kuryk: Azerbaijan (the one we took), Zarifa Aliyeva and Professor Gül. On the Asco website, the status “on road” indicates that the ship is currently sailing, “raid” means the boat is waiting outside the harbor and cannot enter yet, and “bridge” signifies that boarding is taking place.
Our experience: We regularly checked the website for the status of the vessels (and the weather forecast) and as soon as we saw that the ferry Azerbaijan was close to Alat Port, we bought the tickets. Additionally, there is an app called “Marine Traffic” on which you can locate and track vessels live.
Step 2: Buy a ticket
If you plan to take the ferry soon (keep in mind that your visa must be valid until the ship leaves), buy the passenger ticket online for 70 Dollars on the Asco website. The online ticket is a general one and not fixed to a specific time or vessel (and is also valid for couple of months). The online ticket must be activated at the port! There is also the possibility to buy the ticket directly at the harbor on the day the ferry leaves (in USD only) or at the Asco office in Baku. However, we recommend buying the ticket online as it is very smooth.
Our experience: We bought the tickets online one day before we planned to take the ferry. Paying with credit card was easy-going. Since the tickets have no specific date, it doesn’t seem that they are running out.
Step 3: Call the Alat port (preferably in the morning) for further information
Once your desired vessel is either approaching or “on raid” which means that the ship is anchored and waiting for the permission to enter the port, you should call the harbor under +994 559 999 124 or +994 50 746 29 62. Be persistent and expect that it might take some time until someone picks up. It is important to find out when boarding is starting because this information is not provided on the website. If you speak some Russian or Azeri or if you reach someone who speaks English, we advise to ask if the harbor staff could call you back once boarding starts. Alternitavely, you can ask the accommodation you’re staying at to call for you to avoid language barriers. In our case, our hostel “Travel Inn” was very helpful. If the harbor staff agrees to call you back, make sure that your luggage is already packed and you’re ready to go straight to the port anytime.
Our experience: We are very lucky to have Azeri friends who called the harbor for us the day before we wanted to leave. The port officers informed us that we should call the next day at 9 am. That’s what we did but only reached the mailbox. A few minutes later, we got through, but no one picked up. Our Azeri friends tried to call as well and were luckier. After several attempts, someone picked up. The staff was very helpful and promised to inform us once boarding starts. In the meantime, we packed our stuff and waited in Baku for the next hours…
Step 4: Go to the harbor once you know that there is a boat leaving soon
Once you have found out that there is a vessel leaving soon (ideally because the harbor staff gave you a call), go to the Alat port which is located around 70km south of Baku. There are two options to go there: Either take a taxi for around 35 Manat which takes 1 hour or take the bus 195 from Karvansaray S/C which takes approx. 2 hours. The bus 195 leaves from the outskirts of Baku and can be reached e.g. by bus 20. Google Maps works well in Azerbaijan and will help you to find the bus connections and departure times. Once in the bus, ask the driver to drop you on the road junction leading to the harbor. From there it is a 15 min walk (or take a taxi or hitchhike).
Our experience: The port staff called us in the evening at 8:30 pm and told us that we should be there latest by 10pm which is why we had no time to take the bus. We took a taxi which was very smooth, and we arrived at the harbor by 10:30 pm.
Step 5: Activate your ticket at the counter “Asco Kassa” at Alat Port
Upon arrival at the harbor, go straight to the counter “Asco Kassa” to activate your online ticket (or buy one there if you haven’t bought one yet). The officers will check your passport and provide you with the actual ticket. Then, the staff will let you enter the waiting hall which is equipped with seats and a few loungers, AC, power outlets and drinking water. Next to the waiting hall is a female and male toilet. Also, there is an ATM and shop nearby (outside the waiting area, so have your ticket and passport with you if you go shopping) to buy basic stuff like water, bread, fruits, etc.
Our experience: By 10:30 pm, we arrived at the harbor and hoped that the officers would still let us on the next boat because they initially told us that we should be there by 10 pm. When we arrived, they asked us to wait for 10 minutes because they were just having dinner. What a relief that they were so relaxed. Once they had finished their dinner, we got our tickets and entered the waiting hall where we met a traveler from Kazakhstan. And the waiting hall remained our refuge for the next hours…
Step 6: Be prepared to wait and wait until boarding starts
Once you are in the waiting area, there is nothing else to do than wait until passengers are allowed to board. Be aware that boarding starts with trucks and cars. We were told that foot passengers are the last ones to board. However, we met another traveler who was the first one. From the waiting hall, you can see trucks passing but you can’t see them boarding. That means, there is absolutely no way to find out when boarding for you will start. The officers at the port also do not have further information because the ship leaves once it’s full. This can take hours or days.
Our experience: In our case, we had to wait the entire night. At 10:30 pm, we arrived at the harbor, had dinner with our new Kazakh friend and then fell asleep in the loungers in the waiting area until we got woken up by the officers around 7:30 am. The poor Kazakh traveler didn’t call the harbor beforehand and had to wait two days and two nights before he could finally hop on the boat with us.
Step 7: Have everything ready for security and passport control
Before finally entering the ship, officers will accompany you to the security to screen your luggage and then to the passport control. The immigration officer first will check your passport for your Kazakhstan visa (depending on your nationality you might need to explain that you do not need one) and second, will also check if you have stayed for more than 15 days in Azerbaijan and registered (a few years ago, it was 10 days). If you have not registered on the 15th day of your stay in Azerbaijan, you risk paying a fine and maybe even deportation. Read more about the registration procedures in our blog article “Three things to know: Traveling in Azerbaijan”. On a general note, calculate taking the Caspian Sea ferry only if you still have enough days of valid visa left.
Our experience: The officer who woke us up accompanied us to another building where they x-rayed and checked our luggage. Dennis had to open his bag but when they only found dirty clothes, they lost interest. Then another officer came to check our passports and asked us for our Kazakhstan visa. He spoke very poor English and didn’t understand that we – as German citizens – don’t need a visa and will get one on arrival. After making a few calls, he accepted, gave us the exit stamp of Azerbaijan and let us pass.
Step 8: Enter the ship – finally!
You made it onto the Caspian Sea ferry, yeah! Now, the actual fun begins! Continue reading if you want to know more about our experience aboard and some more helpful things to know.
Our experience aboard the Caspian Sea Ferry and useful recommendations
The crew will keep your passport
After security and passport control, an officer accompanied us to the ship. It involved quite some walking. We have backpacks and are used to carry them but the other passenger – our new Kazakh friend – was suffering a lot from carrying his huge suitcase. When entering the ferry, we were led to another office where they checked our passports again. Since we don’t need a visa for Kazakhstan, we had to explain again why. But most importantly, they kept our passports throughout the entire journey, until the arrival in Kazakhstan. No need to worry – you will get them back once arriving at the Kuryk port!
The vessel Azerbaijan is relatively new and comfortable
After leaving our passports with the officers, they continued accompanying us to the common room where we were handed over to the boat crew. The crew led us to our cabin which had two loft beds with a bathroom. As the boat was not full, we had a room on our own but from other travelers we heard that you might need to share the cabin with other people. We got very lucky again and had the room for ourselves. The crew provided us with bed sheets but no towels. There was running warm water in the shower, the cabins were clean and the beds comfortable. We cannot complain at all. But the ship Azerbaijan is a new one, so the vessel specific information depends on the boat. If you’re curious to see how our cabin looked like, check this Instagram reel:
Know the meal schedule
Food and drinks are included in the passenger ticket, but you must stick to the schedule which is written on the canteen door in Azeri and Russian language. We don’t speak either but if you know that this paper lists the schedule, it is possible to guess it. The schedule on the boat Azerbaijan was the following: breakfast from 7:30 am – 8:30 am, lunch from 11:30 am – 12:30 pm, tea and cookies from 3:30 pm – 4:30 pm and dinner from 7:30 pm – 8:30 pm. Each meal lasts for an hour, and you should not be late! If you don’t make it to the canteen within the dedicated mealtime, you won’t get food because the crew will close the dining area after one hour. We’re mentioning this because we missed our first lunch on the ship. We didn’t know about the schedule written on the canteen door and assumed someone would call once the food was ready. Actually someone from the staff came knocking at the passengers’ doors, but we must have overheard it. Probably, we were on deck watching the sea. Anyway, we got lucky again, the kitchen staff forgave us, made an exception and served us a late lunch in between mealtimes.
Additionally, we want to share my (Teresa) perspective traveling on the Caspian Sea ferry as a female. I was the only female passenger (except two female crew members), and they always gave me an extra big portion and asked if I wanted more. The crew members were really kind to us.
Bring snacks and water with you
Food onboard is nothing fancy and all dishes contained meat. We had rice with chicken for lunch, buckwheat with beef for dinner, for breakfast two boiled eggs with butter, jam and bread and for another lunch a chicken soup. For every meal we got bread and one soft drink. Tea is always available in the common room. Nevertheless, we still advise to bring snacks and drinking water as your ship might be delayed. In our case, we waited 11 hours on anchor before being allowed to enter the harbor. And then, we waited another 2 hours at the immigration office. For sure, we appreciated the snacks in between. We also shared them with the truck drivers which helped to break the ice. 😉
Check the schedule for accessing the parking area for cars and trucks on the ferry
There is a schedule for the time when it is allowed to go downstairs to the trucks, cars and motorcycles parked on board. The schedule is also written on a paper pinned on the canteen door. For the vessel Azerbaijan, the access times were 10 am, 1 pm, 5pm and 9 pm.
Make friends with the truck drivers
As long as the land borders of Azerbaijan remain closed, most probably there won’t be many other tourists on the boat. In our case, the truckers came from many different countries: Georgia, Turkey, Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Russia, Ukraine, Belarus etc. They were very interested in talking to us and for us, it was quite fun to interact with them too. Basic knowledge of Russian and Turkish in our case covered most of the languages spoken by the drivers. We listened to stories that we never heard before.
Enjoy the ride and get up for the sunset on the Caspian Sea
No more explanations needed. If you have good weather, it’s worth to get up for sunrise. And you will have enough time to catch more sleep later on.
Be prepared to wait until being allowed to leave the ship and at immigration
As soon as the ferry entered the harbor, the crew collected the bed sheets and asked to leave the cabins. Everyone gathered in the common area where the crew returned the passports. Then, the truckers went downstairs to their trucks while we had to wait. While the crew already started cleaning the cabins, we still had to wait in the common area until we were finally allowed to leave the boat. We were happy to get off the ferry and thought “that was quick” but the officer just led us to a car which drove us to the immigration building. He told us that the immigration officers had not arrived yet and that we must wait for them. One and a half hours later, an officer came to check our passports and gave us the entry stamp for Kazakhstan.
Be prepared for more waiting at the custom
After immigration, they x-ray and checked our luggage which was no problem. But the other Kazakh foot passenger (who studied in Turkey and was on his way home) had a gift for his family in his backpack: a beautiful golden colored Koran! We did not understand a single word, but he had to justify and justify and justify himself for bringing this book… And the officers kept looking through the Koran. After being led to different offices while officers constantly talking (and probably arguing) on the phone, they let our friend and us pass. Additionally, we were in contact with one truck driver, and he told us that he was stuck in custom for another 12 hours after arrival. So be prepared that if you travel with your own car or motorcycle, you can also be stuck in customs for hours. You will also need to pay for insurance at the port. Read more about the car insurance in Kazakhstan.
Facilities in the Kuryk port
In the immigration building you’ll find a small shop which sells snacks and drinks. However, we left the ship in the evening and we found the shop closed. Other travelers reported that the port is also equipped with a café, another shop and a hotel. Please leave a comment below to help other travelers if you have further information on this.
Find a transport from Kuryk to Aktau
The Kuryk port in Kazakhstan is located 25 km east of Kuryk town and 60 km south of Aktau. Most travelers want to go to Aktau, so the last challenge is to find a ride. In our case, we got lucky (again!!) and our new Kazakh friend who was picked up by his family gave us a ride. However, normally there are taxis at the port. If not, ask the officers to call one for you (our Kazakh friend told us it should be around 9000 KZT). If you have time and want another adventure, you can ask one of the truckers to take you. The chance is very high that they go to Aktau or at least pass it and that they have space to take you. The only issue is that their custom procedure might take ways longer than yours. Whatever you decide, we still advise to make friends with the truckers, you might meet them later somewhere on the road again. 😉
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